Sound Off for Nov. 9: Back Off My Bumper

December 19, 2021 Post a Comment

I didn't want to spend 600$ on new ends or have a vinyl that would get jacked up at the first rock or fat ass bug. And I didn't want a mis matched powder coating I would notice every day. I'm a picky person with my truck, so I wanted to do this as best I could.
Tools required - long and short flathead screwdriver, 10mm, 12mm socket and preferably one of those ratcheting wrenchs, flexible hands (small to medium)

Time- took me 1.5 hours for th rear and the runtime of raiders of the lost arc for the front. but I didn't have any clue as to how this worked, so It was a learning process. My plan is to take the ends to a chrome plating shop where I was quoted 35$ a peice to remove the chrome. Then I will be taking to a local auto painting shop where I will have them color matched roughly 200-300 I'm guessing. I will post total cost at the end. The end result will be painted metal bumper ends.

I also have a second vehicle to drive around during this process, which makes things easier. Sorry for my terminology, I suck with words. Let's begin

1. Remove liscense plate. There is a push clip underneath you need to remove

2. Remove push clips at bottom of the black plastic peice of the bumper.

3. Remove wiring harnesses from liscense plate lights and trailer plug. No picture but they just slide out after you press down on the clippy part.

4. Trailer plug just unclips out

5. Unclip white backup camera harness and the black harness next to it. I honestly couldn't get the black harness apart so I just left it. It didn't need to come apart, but if you want to remove the whole plastic peice then it will be necessary. If you don't, you just have leave the plastic part hanging during your unbolting process.

5. The plastic black peice just clips into parts of the bumper. In order to remove this you have to squeeze each clip with your fingers or pry it with a screwdriver. This part is a PTIB, but just be patient and place something in between the black part and chrome end to keep pressure on the black part. This prevents the clips from going right back in when you get one out.

Pair of pliers I had lying around to create the upward force on the plastic

It's kinda hard to see, but there are roughly 7 clip points on each side. You have to reach around (lol) the inner cap brace to get a few of them. By the time you figure out how to finangle your hand and a screwdriver behind one side, the other side goes super quick.

On the far ends are these. Take these off first, you can see the clip setup on this peice. The white part just pops out. Be gentle and it will come.

For visibility, a good trusty flashlight that won't fall on your face is really helpful in seeing the clips that are out and the ones that are still in

Picture of the clips that hold the plastic down to the bumper

Once you get all 14 undone and the plastic end corners off, time to pop the plastic peice off. Be careful. Watch your plate light assembly when maneuvering this out. There are also two clips at the bottom of the plastic that simply will unpop when your taking it off, don't worry you didn't break anything. Picture below for reference

Once the plastic is off or loose enough to get to the top bolts of the chrome end then your good to go. Start by unscrewing the bottom 2 first with your 12mm socket. The one towards the rear of the truck has a bolt on top, maneuver a wrench in there to hold it while you loosen it. Set those aside and start on the top.

You can see the 4 top ones here. Loosen one at a time. I was able to break them free and then loosen with my fingers after that.

Once you have all the bolts off, gently slide the bumper end off away from the truck. If your super paranoid, put some masking tape or something around the body area if your worried about scratching the truck.

And magically there off. Take off brace and go get them bitches painted or plastiderped or whatever.

Picture of area when the end is off

Ok round 2

Front actually went smoother than the rear, but there are a lot more bolts to take out. Keep track of your hardware and only use non power tools. Taking it slow is key.

Start by popping the hood and removing the lower grill peice. There are YouTube videos of how to do this, but I'll I've the short sweet version.

Two pop tabs on each end and like 4 10mm screws in the center. Take em off

Once they are out, gently press down on one side of the lower part of the grill and slide the fixed clip out. DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME. And the whole assembly will come off

Remove skid plate bolts where black plastic connects to plate

Remove the metal cross bar above the upper portion of the bumper.

Unscrew the visible screws on the top of the bumper, this doesn't disconnect from the truck but it's like 50% the bolts you have to take off eventually. This can wait if you choose

Next take off the front mudflat thing. Your gonna hear something go loose behind the inner bolt but don't worry it's suppose to do that. It's a cross peice that connects to another bolt you have to remove

Remove the bolts on the lip of the wheel well

And under the bumper cap. Mixture of 12mm and 10mm

Once you got those off there's one more inner pop clip that is on the inner peice. Pop that off and the thing will come loose. Gently pop the outer plastic with a flathead or something and slide the whole peice out

Next disconnect the fog lamp assembly. It's an easy one.

Next up is to take off this part

Two pop clips on the front and 2 bolts on the rear

uhhh picture of inside. It's all just clips into place and you need to pop it out. White pokey thingy has nothing to do with anything

Bottom clippy

Inner white pointy thing you need to squeeze

After that it will look like this

Annnd top part for reference

Now time to remove the silver bolts on top of the end cap. These will be the final ones before the bumper comes off.

Take them off and slide that bad boy off one side at a time

Now time to isolate the ends

Take the remainder bolts you couldn't reach in the beginning out of the black plastic part and the inner ones you couldn't reach before the whole bumper came off.

After that the whole black part should come off with another metal in between part.

Now time to take out the fog lights. Just one screw and the lamp comes out.

Then unhook the easier side to unhook of the plastic bracket peice. Annnnnd the whole thing should go out foward

Congrats, now go paint em or whatever. I will report back after the dechroming and painting and reassembly.

REASSEMBLY TIME

So a few things I'm going to suggest

1. Take this very slow. You disassembled it, you can put it back together
2. Use masking tape to put around freshly painted or powdercoated surfaces if your in fear of dropping or scraping
3. A soft mat or towel underneath bumpers will help if you need to set the equipment down.
4. DONT RUSH!

Alright first thing you do I stare at your bumper ends because they are freshly powdercoated and look sexy as fuck

Start with whatever end you want but I chose the rear.

Begin by installing the cross sections back in. I suggest your tailgate with a towel if your stuck for space because your tundra is a freaking whale and takes up the entire garage

They go on like so. There's only 4 bolts that are needed, leave the bottom 2 semi loose because you'll need the malability of the steel to squeeze her back on

Do both ends. Next if your paranoid, tape some shit up. At least on one side, then once you successfully get one on, your a pro at the other side.

Utilize previous pics of assembled bumper to make sure you line up the proper bolts, I reccomend getting the top side squared away first then moving to bottom. Slide her one and you should be able to bend the metal with your hand enough to squeeze it on. Put the top on first and then pry open onto bottom

During this time I suggest checking the lining of the end cap as your installing. There is a gap between it and the body panel, just make sure the gap is semi uniform during the process. All of my top bolts went in nicely except for one. Idfk why, but I couldn't use my fingers to tighten this one like the rest.

Once you get the top to the point to where your ready to tighten to your end torque, line up the bottom. This is where the top nut on the rear bolt will come back to haunt you, but don't worry I got your back.

Basically you tape the nut inside the closed end of the wrench like so

And the result is

Sorry for blur, now you can fish your wrench over the area where the rear bolt is going to go and hand twist til your thread it. Then proceed to tighten

Alright, once everything is loosely tight, alight evenly, at this point you might want to do the other side and line em up at the same time. Once your happy, tighten it up. I didn't look up torque specs, but I didn't go super duper tight, prolly 20ft lbs if I had to guess. But as long as you don't over tight you should be good.

Once you get the ends lined up, snap on the bumper plastic cap ( IT FUCKIN GOES ON A HELL OF A LOT EASIER THAN IT COMES OFF THATS FOR SURE). Then do the end plastic peices as well.

Hook up all your wiring and put the plastic tabs back in the bottom as well and like magic

Check your lining again, but it shouldn't be too off, if it is..... it really won't be noticeable. Top bolts keep everything level and bottom does to. Don't sweat it. Dat ass looking sexy doe

Now time for front. I began by assembling my front bumper on my tail gate, you start by getting your bearings in order and figuring out which side is up. Once you have a clue, put your fog light trim in

Fog light screw goes on the left hand side of your looking face down. You have to play with it a bit. Work one side at a time and it will pop back in. It might be a little different if you do violent squeezing to get it in, but it's a fog light and you won't notice

Next install light portion. Setup looks like this
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Last edited: Feb 24, 2017
mtnbiker1978 Dr. Kenneth Noisewater

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Awesome. I'm doing this exact same thing tomorrow and then getting them powder coated. Thanks for the write up and pictures!
continued because I ran out of room
The 4 holes are at different elevations, just slide the lower ones into one side and line up the single screw on the other. Tighten

Next grab the plastic bumper center peice and begin assembly. Right ways up looks like dis

Use those "washer nut" combos to put all 6 in. I waited to put bumper back on before I did the bottom ones because of the disassembly process

Next, put the cross section back in. Behind bumper

Sorry terrible image, but that peice runs across, you can put every single tab and bolt back in, lifting on the side you trying to tighten / thread will make the bolts go in easier

Next is the MOST INPORTANT STEP

REPRESENT!!!! Also the factory bracket Toyota gives you help hold that thing up for the next step. Tape shit up. And find a support for one side as you finangle this bitch back on

Also if your working in a dark environment in a somewhat not totally trustworthy neighborhood,
Keep this tool nearby

Easily accessible 9mm can save your life one day, if not a giant fucking wrench

Annnd the support

LINE IT UP ON FOG LIGHT BRACKET THINGY, not the white part.

There's 2 top each side and two bottom each side for a Total of 8 bolts. Get the top semi tight and work your way up from the bottom.

As you remember, the inside bumper to truck bolt threaded through the wheel well plastic peice. So your good to leave the outside one in. Get it lined up and then thread, but a few things

List of shit

That metal dot like peice took me forever to figure out. Simply put

That's how it goes lol. Took me like 30 min to remember.

But the first thing you should do is fish that baby in there

Bad angle, but you'll figure it out.

Btw this thing removes so if your having issues putting the folder like things in, take this off and try again

I was able to fish it on without taking it off on one side, by also I was able to put it t on by taking it off on the other.

Once you get it in, put the wheel well screw/bolts in.

Now..... those STUPID GROMITS ARE USED AS THREADS FOR THE SCREWS!!!!!!!!!

That took me a sec to decrypt as well. It might take some maneuvering but everything will go back in.

This is the one where I took that plastic peice off to fit the wheel well liner in. Just back it off then put the peice back on once you get it in there.

Next is front mudflap thingy

Bolts are a little different. Just make note

Takes some time but smaller guys can fit their entire hand in and feed the screw/bolt in through the mudflap and into this peice on the back

Nexxxxt is to put these bolt/screws back in

Hence the jeep luva lol

Once it's all on, put your trd pro grill back on and screw her down.
GENTLY

AND THE END RESULT

Better pics will come!!!!

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Last edited: Jan 26, 2017
mtnbiker1978 Dr. Kenneth Noisewater

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We do all of our powder coating for the company I work for with the powder coated, and have for over 20 years, so they are doing it for me for free. They strip the chrome and powder over the nickel.
Oh that's awesome. Always good to got a hook up!!I searched around and found a place that will remove the chrome for 35$ a peice, which I don't think is too ridiculous.
Found this on YouTube.[/QUOTE]
That would be helpful if it was a 2014 and up. But thanks anyway
NewImprovedRon Hey! Get off my grass!

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Deck rail system, Bed divider, door sill protectors, LED reverse light bars, Aries Bull Bar with 28" 180 watt LED light bar, LED step lights, LED bed lights, driver-side grab handle, TRD Rear Sway Bar, BedRug bed mat and tailgate mat, Morimoto Fog Lights, Diamondback SE Bed Cover, LED bed lights, more to come.....

Nice Job! Thanks for the write-up!
MotoTundra The Ocho

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-TRS Mini D2S Retrofit on TRD Pro Headlights (Apollo 2.0 Shrouds, 35w XB Ballasts, 5500k Bulbs) -Baja Designs Squadron R Sport Aux lights. -TRD Pro Grill -TRD Rear Sway Bar -BakFlip VP Tonneau w/BakBox -Dipped wheels & bumpers -Iron Cross HD steps -Undercover Swingcase -SunTek Paint Protection film -Tinted glass -Bedmat -OEM Towing Mirrors

I have been putting this off.... Thanks for giving me the extra motivation I need. Now if it wasn't 20° out.
Isn't the concept the same or close, minus a rivet here, or an extra nut there? I would believe so......
It definatly is close. Some people would rather have the exact year "how to" so there not worrying about doing it ya know?
Yea man knock it out. Isn't too bad. Stresses me out seeing my bumper apart, but I will live.
No prob, more to come today hopefully.
MotoTundra The Ocho

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-TRS Mini D2S Retrofit on TRD Pro Headlights (Apollo 2.0 Shrouds, 35w XB Ballasts, 5500k Bulbs) -Baja Designs Squadron R Sport Aux lights. -TRD Pro Grill -TRD Rear Sway Bar -BakFlip VP Tonneau w/BakBox -Dipped wheels & bumpers -Iron Cross HD steps -Undercover Swingcase -SunTek Paint Protection film -Tinted glass -Bedmat -OEM Towing Mirrors

I need to. Nice write up btw, thanks!
Ok am mechanically inclined to change engine mounts and the likes.
The write up is nice, but I like the visual better. Planning a plastidip surgery on both chrome bumpers as soon as Maryland weather changes for the better.
the luxury of Florida down here!
Alright guys front end is up
geek755 New Member

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@ da_jeep_luva
Thanks for this write-up and the pics. I know you put some time into it. I tried the rear bumper instructions but couldn't make work for me so did the below instead. I'll be trying the front end instructions in a bit.

In case it might help somebody with big hands and who isn't very flexible.

I wasn't able to get to the rear clips for the plastic covers on the rear bumper and found it easier for me (big hands) to just remove the whole rear bumper as an assembly with everything still bolted to the tow hitch. 19mm 3/4 drive, remove all but the forward most bolt and one back bolt....have all 3 bolts loose though...with a friend, remove the back most bolt and swing the bumper down and then remove. Make sure wires are disconnected first.

Took 10 mins to pull the whole thing by myself (recommend you have a friend to help). After that another 10-15 on the plastic cover clips.

da_jeep_luva 's method is better if you're small and limber and don't want to hassle with the weight of the whole tow hitch and bumper assembly and getting everything lined back up.
Alright, assembly day. Stand by for more tutorial and tips
geek755 New Member

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Just dropped mine off at painter today. I couldn't find a place to strip chrome had the sandblasted. You near Orlando?
Yea I'm in cocoa, I went to Titusville for the chrome stripping. From what I understood, any shop that applies chrome can remove it. Like through acid and electrodes and shit
geek755 New Member

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Yes, I think you're right, but I called 4 different places and none would strip if they weren't putting chrome back on it...got pissed and decided to sandblast. Glad you were able to get them stripped of chrome. Think that will be a better to paint surface.
Also, paint shop wanted near 400$ vs 160$ for blast and powdercoating
geek755 New Member

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That is a smoking deal! I paid $50 a corner (for front surfaces only) for sandblasting and $400 for paint (this includes painting grille and new hood bulge though). I tried several powder places and wrap places and all cost more than paint. Next time I need something done, I gonna come your way.
Can't wait to see your ride all finished.
Alright, almost done guys. Progress posted so far with reinstallation.
All done guys. Better pics to come
All good info...i replaced the bulge, grill, and lower valence...just ordered new caps...will have them painted and installed...looks to stressful to me..lol
Having my backup vehicle was what kept my stress level down. I've never touched body parts on any vehicle before, And it wasn't bad to figure out.
RasTafari48 New Member

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has anyone ever tried to plasti dip the front end caps in place (not removed)? wondering if this is possible.